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| We here at MTSC are ready, willing and able to help you and your Mom and/or Dad to make the best school project you can imagine. Before we begin, here are some helpful links of good School Project products we carry: Scene-A-Rama, Safari Ltd. Toobs. |
| First, after your subject has been selected, you must do some research! A little studying will go a long, long way. We here at MTSC know a lot about history and are eager to help. There is also plenty of info on the web. Here is a link to one of our links pages, where you'll find plenty of historical reference sites. |
One easy way to make your diorama is to use a shoe box. As you can see the shoe box method sets up simply and creates a stage effect drawing the viewer into your diorama. |
To give your project depth create a background. Take a sheet of white poster paper (it's a little firmer than regular paper but not as thick as cardboard), measure it to fit in the back of your box when slightly bent. This will hide the corners of your box giving you the illusion of depth. After you have fitted it, take the poster paper out and draw in your background. You can also find many pictures of landscapes on the internet. Print those out, match them together and paste them to your poster board.
You can, of course use a small board without any background for you diorama. This is most effective when used to display large troop movements of say the Napoleonic wars or Ancient battles. |
We also suggest using 1:72 scale figures for your project. These figures are an inch high, are relatively inexpensive and come in a variety of subject matters from many companies. Many figures make for great battle scenes.
A Word About Painting the Figures
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After youve picked you subject and selected the figures it's time for some additional scenery. If your scene is not flat like rolling hills an easy solution is Woodland Scenics plaster cloth. The instructions are very simple: basically you tape down wads of newspaper for your hills, wet the plaster cloth and lay it over the newspaper hills.
After that you shoud paint the hills, apply a mixture of water and white glue and then sprinkle on some turf grass or plain old dirt depending on your scene, of course. |
If the diorama calls for trees gather up some sticks. We like to use the ones you find on the inside of pine trees but any old sticks will do. (We also sell plastic tree armatures if you would like to use them.) Next, take some Lichen (lichen is a moss sold by us and many hobby stores) and apply it to the tops of your sticks. With a small knife and your parents supervision, cut small slots in your hills and insert your trees. That and a small amount of glue will hold you forest in place. If your terrain is flat simply glue your trees in place. A small amount of clay or plaster at their bases will help hold them securely.
That should just about do it but if you need any help remember we are just a phone call or email away. And after youve completed your masterpiece be sure to send us a picture so we can put it on our site! Questions? Call or write: |
| Click here for step-by-step pictures of a World War I trench section. |
| Photo Gallery |
| Andersonville Prison by Matt Clark. This is an outstanding piece, it only depicts a fraction of the compound but relates the entire story. |
| Heres an outstanding project from Daniel Peteuil. He depicted World War IIs famous Battle of the Bulge. He used Revell 1:72 figures along with 1:72 Scale Dragon Armor and other various model kits. He constructed the buildings from scratch and it is one awesome piece! |
| Kenny Maynard did this dramatic depiction of the Battle of Saltsville, Virginia during the American civil War. His Great, Great Grandfather was at the engagement. Kenny used Imex figures and Woodland Scenics Plaster Cloth to construct the hills. |
| This recycled-box castle comes from Trevor Green of Orillia, Ontario, Canada. |
| The Ohio River in all it's majesty comes from Mike Jones. |