The Enhancement
Enhancing a figure is a relatively easy process that results in a much nicer looking figure. The first step is to go over the figure with a sharp Xacto and clean up areas of detail such as where the arm passes out of the sleeve Figure 1.3). Cut away the excess material and, if need be, slightly hollow out the area between the arm and the sleeve. Heat a small pin or needle and press it into the tip of the rifle or pistol. Hat brims, scabbards, swords and such are usually oversized or too thick due to molding considerations and should be shaved or trimmed down to a realistic scale. Cutting around pockets, cuffs and collars also enhances the overall appearance of a figure. At this point, if you are happy with the figure and want to move on to painting it, you should do one final thing - straighten any bent parts such as rifles, swords and the like. This can be done by placing the figure in boiling water for about three minutes and upon removing, repositioning the bent item with you figures while placing it in cold water. An alternative method is to use a hair dryer to heat the figure and cold water to lock it in place. Now, if you are ready to paint, skip ahead to the painting section.

The Conversion
Conversions of plastic figures can range from the simple to the complex. Some of the most common are:
Changing the Position of Arms, Legs and Heads
Changing positions of existing body parts can be easily done by heating and cooling the area to be bent using the methods mentioned above. Raising an arm or twisting a figure at the waist is easily done and can completely change the figure.

Changing the Arms
Changing arms is fairly simple if the arm extends from the body (as with a man throwing a grenade) and is not molded close to the trunk. Always try to use figures of similar proportions. While maintaining the correct angle, cut the part to be switched with a sharp knife. When possible, make the cut along the seam of the shirt or jacket. Next use a small dab of two-part epoxy (*MTSC) to tack the arm in place. Apply pressure until the putty seeps out of the seams and remove the excess, filling in the gap. Take a common pin used for sewing and heat the pointed end with a lighter or candle and while still hot push it through the arm and into the body (a small pilot hole may need to be drilled to start the pin). Finally, snip it off, flush and fill with a dab of putty if necessary (Figure 2.1).

Changing the Head
One head can be swapped for another. Keep in mind a clean, straight cut is essential to ensure a good joint between the new head and the neck. Attach the new head using the same pin and epoxy method described above. You can also add a head from a resin or metal figure kit (*MTSC). There are hundreds of different head sets available from any number of manufacturers. These heads can be added by drilling out a socket inside the collar band and gluing in the replacement (Figure 2.2

Changing Torsos
You can swap the top of one figure with the bottom of another using the same epoxy and pinning technique mentioned above. In this case it is better to use two pins instead of one and the torsos should be very similar in appearance. Fill any gaps with epoxy putty. In some cases you may be able to drill up through the figure and screw the two halves together (Figure 2.3).

Straightening/Bending Arms and Legs
Arms and legs can be either straightened or bent by cutting a small V-shaped gap and bending or pulling to the desired shape (Figure 3.1)Use Epoxy filler (*MTSC) with perhaps a smaller wedge of plastic within the cut to fill out the wedge. You many have to hold the new shape in place until the epoxy dries as the plastic has a natural springiness to it and will tend to return to it's original position Figure 3..

Adding Backpacks, Rifles, Canteens, Cups, Etc.
Most plastic figures come with equipment that appears to be an extension of the body with no visible lines of demarcation. If you want to achieve a realistic look with total authenticity, the items should be completely cut off and cemented back in position, replaced with a new piece or alternatively the sides should be trimmed or cut away to give a true relief effect (Figure 3.3 & 3.4). The wealth of 1:32 and 1:35 figure kits and accessory packs by such makers as Shenandoah (*MTSC), Warriors (*MTSC), Wolf (*MTSC) and Glory (*MTSC) offer an unlimited source of items to add to and enhance your figures. Use epoxy putty to attach the items.

Replacing Rifles, Swords, Etc.
Rifle barrels and saber blades can be replaced by using after market pieces mentioned above or by making them out of brass rod. Use 3/64" or 1/32" brass to replace the barrel and flatten the rod to make a saber blade.

The Painting:
Once you have cleaned and prepared your figures it's time to make a decision on painting them. You should first decide on the type of paint you want to use. Any paint is fine but you should choose between the two types most commonly used. They are acrylics such as Vallejo (*MTSC), Tamiya and those sold in craft stores, all of which are water-based, and enamels such as Humbrol (*MTSC) and Testor's Model Master, which are petroleum-based. The type you use is a matter of preference as neither holds a distinct advantage over the other and both are available in a wide variety of colors.

Now that you have your paint, the next step is to coat and prime your figures. The biggest problem with painting plastic figures is that the paint tends to flake or chip off, especially around flexible parts like rifles and swords. We suggest two different ways to prime plastic figures. The older way is to coat the entire figure in liquid latex (*MTSC) which is used to make molds. A very thin coat of latex acts like a flexible glove around the figure. The paint will bond or adhere to the latex and remain flexible even when stressed. Latex remains tacky even after it has dried so avoid handling the figure as much as possible and watch out for pet hairs! After the latex has dried to a tacky state you must prime the figure (*MTSC). The primer will adhere to the latex and give a uniform base for your colors. NEW Tip Just Added: While I have been using and recommending the liquid latex method of priming figures with great success for many years there is a new product on the market which I now highly recommend for the priming of all plastic figures. It is Specialty Plastic Primer from Rust-Oleum (*MTSC). Designed to refinish outdoor plastic patio furniture, I have found it has superior paint adhesion on all types of plastics (thanks to Ansley M. Pigg for the tip!). Apply only one thin coat or light mist of primer being careful not to put it on too thick! Always let the primer dry for 24 hours, allowing the solvents in it to evaporate. Tip: When using paint or primer aerosol sprays warm the can first in a pot or jar of hot water. This will help with a more uniform spray.

Moving on to the actual painting of the figure, you should do some basic research on the uniforms of the period before you start. There are countless uniform guides on the market that offer good color selections and ideas. The Osprey series (*MTSC) covers just about any time period and features accurate, full-color plates in each book. Another good source for uniform colors is to contact the various companies that make uniforms for reenactors and ask for cloth samples. The C. D. Jargin company puts out a nice sample sheet of Civil War fabrics (*MTSC) that covers all the various uniform colors of the Civil War period.

When painting figures, I find it is best to paint several at a time. Paint from the inside out; that is, paint the faces and hands first, hair next, then the uniforms and finish with the equipment. There is one thing that most people tend to do which should be AVOIDED at all costs...Do not paint the eyeballs big and white!! Many a good figure is ruined by the bug eye stare as I call it. In the 54mm scale you do not see bright white eyes. I prefer to darken the eye area with a little line rather than paint a big bug eyed eyeball. If you must use white, use just a hint.
Once everything is painted you must make one final decision and that is whether you want a basic toy soldier style paint job which is great for large dioramas or a more realistic historical miniature look.

If you want the basic look, then you should spray and seal your figure with a clear protective coat in either a matt or gloss finish depending on your preference. The matt finish tends to be more natural looking while the gloss finish represents a toy soldier style. Once again, clear coat by Krylon is a better value than hobby store sprays and works just as well.

If you want your figures to portray a more realistic and natural look there are several techniques that will greatly enhance their appearance. The first is washing. Washes are a good way to bring out shadows and details on a figure. Washing involves adding color to the depressions like fabric folds, eye sockets and such. I prefer to use brown for washes but black or gray are also good. Use a small amount of thinner for enamels and for acrylics I use windshield washer fluid (the trace of soap and alcohol in it allows the paint to flow better) and mix in a few drops of brown paint. You want an even flow that runs into the folds and depressions and it may take some practice to get the right consistency. The second, dry brushing, is useful in bringing out the highlights on a figure. Simply lighten the color you want to highlight such as a uniform coat and, using a flat brush, remove most of the paint from the brush by drawing it across a piece of paper towel. Now draw the brush across the figure, leaving a slight trace of the lightened color on the areas you want highlighted. It is best to do the wash first and the dry brushing afterwards. When you are pleased with the look of your figure, seal it as mentioned above. With a little practice and a few basic techniques you should be able to produce beautiful, eye-catching figures.

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