MTSC HOW-TO #1
Getting Started in Historical Miniature Modeling. Produced with help from the Michigan Historical Miniatures Club.
Preparing, Building and Painting
Historical Miniatures

FIGURE CLEAN-UP, ASSEMBLY AND
PREPARATION FOR PAINTING

1. First and most importantly, read all of the instructions thoroughly before you start cutting or gluing anything. Lay all the parts out on a clean flat surface and make sure the parts are all there. Compare any drawings or photos to what you have to work with.

2. Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild soap and water. The casting process leaves residue that can make glues and paints not adhere properly. Use a sponge or a soft brush. Be careful not to break off any detail parts.

3. Remove any injection flash. Check the instructions again first to be sure that it is actually flash and not part of the kit. Use your files and sandpaper to carefully remove the excess. Next, remove any resin pour blocks. These are the square chunks of excess resin which result from the molding process. If they are long and thin—1/4" thick or less—you can score the block close to the part with a sharp no. 11 blade, then snap it off. Be sure to score it on both sides and far away from the part to avoid damaging it should the block not snap off as expected.

When the block is more than 1/4" thick, cut through it with your razor saw. Cut through one side about halfway, then turn the part over and cut through the rest of the way. This assures you will not damage the underside of the figure by cutting where you can't see.

A third method employs sandpaper. Place a sheet of coarse sandpaper flat on your workbench, grit side up. Then place the block part against the sandpaper and move the part back and forth in a figure-eight motion to sand the block evenly. Change to medium-grit sandpaper when necessary. This technique is useful for removing large, wide blocks on torsos and waistlines that cannot be easily removed with a razor saw.

Never remove the block completely by sawing or sanding. Leave a little to clean up with a sharp no. 11 blade. Cut it away bit by bit, scraping at the end, to avoid damaging delicate details near the edges of the block.

Note: Cutting or sanding resin will produce a fine dust that can irritate your eyes and nose, so wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding.

4. It is now time for assembly of the figure. Carefully test-fit the parts first. Then place a drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue) on the bonding area of one part and press it to the other, holding both in the correct position for a few moments until the glue sets. If you make a mistake you can use a debonder to unglue the joint. If the fit is flush, you will have a perfectly bonded joint. For small gaps, use a toothpick to apply a small drop of glue.
It is a good idea to pin the larger parts together using some type of wire (a paper clip works well) or a steel sewing pin (cut the head off with a wire-cutter). Make a small hole in the two matching parts. Epoxy or super glue the pin in one part and let it set. The hole in the matching part should be a bit wider in diameter to allow a little movement to perfectly match the two parts. Add glue to the matching surfaces and to the pin hole. Match the parts and set them aside in order to allow the glue to set. It is a good idea to restrain the parts with a rubber band to keep them in alignment while the glue dries.

Pin the legs for mounting
Pin the head to the torso

5. Using model putty (such as Vallejo brush on or Squadron Green Putty), fill the seams between the fitted parts. Then fill any air bubbles left from the casting process. After the putty has set, remove any excess with a modeler's file or fine grit sandpaper. Once assembled remove the mold seams. Fortunately, resin figures have few mold seams, but they will occur occasionally. Wash and dry your assembled model prior to painting to remove oils from your fingers.

Fill and sand the seams
between the fitted parts

6. Once you have assembled the figure, you can begin painting. The best way to handle your figure from this point on is to mount it on a temporary working base, which is nothing more than a scrap block of wood. With many smaller figures, all you will need to do is put a small drop of cyanoacrylate glue on each foot to fix the figure to the base. If the figure is large or heavy, drill a small hole 1/4" deep in the bottom of one foot and insert and glue a short brass rod, then glue the figure to the base.

Before painting you must give it a coat of primer. We recommend two types of primers. One is a brush-on coating which lends itself well to smaller figures, and the other is a spray best used on larger figures. Apply just enough to seal the metal or resin and provide the bite for the paint. Allow the primer to dry for at least 24 hours.

Go to Next Session